This site uses cookies, your continued use implies you agree with our cookie policy. Dismiss

5 Low Angle grip

Comments:

| 13 November 2012 18:33

David - Well done for keeping at it! Just to pick up a few points: for this scooping cut, the pivot is always my thumb which pretty much doesn't move; as the corner descends into the cut and back up to the surface, the effect should be a slice, and this should deal with awkward grain; for bigger cuts or recalcitrant grain, make more than one pass - don't think you always have to do it in one; the cutting angle: keep this low and if you want the edge tougher, add more inside bevel. Hope this helps!

| 12 November 2012 20:39

Well, after several more practice sets in walnut, a review of the wood grain video and the humble realization that I just thought my tools were sharp, things are decidedly better. The difference in woods and more particularly, the difference in the grain structures is the upshot of this experience. Working in basswood is a beginners delight in that the grain is more predictable. For this design, I do not see the need to change cutting angles, but I can now understand why that might be necessary on a larger carving. This walnut is somewhat burley and that requires each cut to be thought through and examined. Also, I understand a bit more what is meant by "razor sharp."

| 07 November 2012 17:59

This is a really neat design that I've envisioned using on a walnut side table I am making. I have achieved some consistency in basswood, but when I attempted a few practice sets in walnut, it was like entering the twilight zone, or something. All my tools became dull, stropping is a temporary fix, I think I know which way the grain runs, but on the next cut it seems different. Splintering, splitting. I'm getting the sense that I've missed something major. I did notice on other videos (Bramble Cottage, e.g.) where you were carving very hard wood, that the pivot point for the low angle grip seemed at times to become more at the wrist of the hand held over the blade which seems to be well anchored and used to lever more power into the cut, but with a very short throw - minimizing run-on. Slightly different than described here.

I msy be grasping at straws - not sure how to change what I'm doing to accommodate it.

Please login to post a comment