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Finishing off the Waterleaf moulding around the stand. I've used Cherrywood here; there are large surfaces to the big leaves and in this context, when they are going to be looked at close up, I have chosen to sand them and bring our the grain.
| 23 March 2013 04:10
Chris - Thanks for responding to my queries. I have read your books and these lessons just make the writing and photographs so clear! The are like personal lessons that I can view over and over.
| 22 March 2013 05:55
William - In the way I use the oil, and the amount, I don't think the driers are in any way a health problem - though I'd never use it where food was involved - but, sure, try some others. (Although, I also believe Tung oil, like Danish oil, have added driers etc too.) I'd suggest some experiments on scrap wood. I use boiled rather than raw linseed oil because the raw seems to me more reactive - it darkens the wood more, but you could try that as an alternative too.
| 22 March 2013 01:45
Chris - Would tung oil plus turpentine be okay? As I understand it, B.L.O. has heavy metal driers and petroleum solvents which are not good for us.
| 24 March 2012 23:12
Chris,
Just wanted to say thank you for these new lessons. I have been studying architectural carvings, and specifically moldings, so your timing is very apropos to what I am learning. As far as carving them, well, let's just say my mind is ahead of my hands in knowledge, but I am finding , as you had said would happen, that the more I carve, the better and more confident I am getting. Now if I only had unlimited funds for proper sweeps, shapes and sizes of tools, and unlimited time in which to commission them properly and then practice with them, life would be so much better!
