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So, there I was, happily bosting in the Tawny Owl project with my favourite sculpture gouge, one that I've been using for 40 years or so, when I felt the blade go loose in the handle. The tang had broken; there was only a short stub of metal left when I pulled it out.
When you think of the hefty lump of metal at the far end of the shoulder compared with the slender tang at the other, it's not surprising that the tang breaks in these wide, heavy duty gouges. In fact, it's more of a surprise to me that they last so long. I've always thought a socket for the handle would be a better, tougher option for these big, often abused, gouges. But, hey, we have what we have.
But all is not lost! I repaired the tool and now it's back doing what it's good at.
Don't forget: Protect your eyes and lungs from the metal grinding dust.
| 11 June 2024 06:48
Thanks, Chris. For its intended use of cutting serifs, it will likely work well even without reshaping, but seeing it bent doesn’t suit my eye. So it like I’ll have to forge ahead and become a blacksmith (pun definitely intended!).
| 11 June 2024 06:13
Darrin - The other option is to send the tool back and demand one that was properly-shaped in the first place. That helps keep manufacturers on their toes regarding quality control.
As to your actual question:
You can certainly do what you propose, and exactly as your describe. The shank (shaft) doesn't need to be tempered but you can certainly quench it when its back to a dull blue, after you've finished re-shaping.
It's a light tool, not much in the way of stresses so the shank can be left relatively soft.
Have fun!
| 10 June 2024 17:38
Hi Chris. I recently bought a used Pfeil fishtail chisel for lettering. Based on the photos I saw, it looked like it was hafted crookedly, but the shaft is actually bent. I'm thinking that if I keep the blade itself from heating up, I can use a blow torch to heat just the area of the shaft that's bent and hammer straight. Am I correct on this? And once it's straight, do I need to quench it or just allow it to air cool? Thanks!
| 13 March 2022 17:20
Adam - I've never actually done that but I don't see why one shouldn't. As long as your welding doesn't affect the tempering of the blade itself, particularly the cutting end, you could add quite a hefty tang.
Let us know how you get on!
| 12 March 2022 23:26
Hi Chris, thank you for including these kinds of 'maintenance' videos. I'm realising that maintaining the tools is a (very) large part of carving. Would welding and shaping a new tang onto the stub not be strong enough to last? Thanks!
